1997 Quilt: Women in Film

Wisconsin Women Library Workers

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Designer and Assembler: Christie Brokish
Quilt Coordinators: Kathy Rohde and Mary Knapp
Winner: Mary Sloan

*"Barbra Streisand" by Cheryl Becker

My square depicts multiple ways Streisand has been involved in film--actress, singer, composer, producer, director. The gold figures are her two Oscars--for Best Actress Funny Girl and for Best Song "Evergreen" from A Star is Born.

*"Mary Pickford" by Ann Clark

Mary Pickford was a child stage actress until she made her first film for Biograph, then a fledgling film company, in 1909. She soon became the international film industry's first great star, starring in over fifty feature-length films. Her golden curls and children's roles endeared her to millions, but she was more than America's Sweetheart. She was a capable businesswoman and was instrumental in founding and directing a major film production company. A new book, Without Lying Down: Frances Marion and the Powerful Women of Early Hollywood by Ceci Beauchamp, chronicles her support of other women who wrote, directed, and acted in these early films.

*"Mae West" by Kathy Rohde

Mae West's career spanned eighty years--from her first appearance on the vaudeville stage at age five to her role in the film Sextette at age eighty-five. Known primarily for her campy film appearances in 30's and 40's in which she played bawdy women notorious for one-liner comebacks, West also wrote plays and screenplays. Her most infamous was Sex, a 1926 play that caused such a commotion in New York, the district attorney convened a Play Jury assigned to investigate charges of indecency and salaciousness. Sex won out, but continued to be the subject of raids and criticism; West herself was arrested, jailed and tried. Social historians today think West helped liberate female sexuality; feminists criticize her hyper-feminity. Either way, West avoided fame in areas in which she had no control. My quilt square is a copy of Salvador Dali's painting, Mae West's Face Which Can Be Used as a Surrealist Apartment, 1934-35. The original can be viewed at the Art Institute of Chicago.

*"Lina Wertmuller" by Barb Sanford

Italian screenwriter and director Lina Wertmuller was born in Rome in 1928. Her film career began almost by chance. In 1962, her friend Flora Carabella, then married to Marcello Mastroianni, introduced her to Federico Fellini, who took her on as assistant director of 8-1/2. This encounter opened the way to Lina's own first film as a director, The Lizards, in 1963. Her film credits include The Seduction of Mimi, 1972; Love and Anarchy, 1973; Swept Away, 1974; and Seven Beauties, 1975. Critics have called her "the first totally unfeminine female director" and "the most exciting woman director on the international scene." She maintains that she is with the feminists on most issues "to the death." She points out that, if the women in her films are inadequate, the men are worse. Lina is a short, slight woman with cropped reddish-brown hair who invariably wears glasses with white plastic frames and who is liable to appear "draped in shawls and chains, clanking with bones and driftwood, jingling with silver bracelets." Her "scratchy, deep voice" is said to "generate excitement." She herself says that her aim is to provoke, and this she undoubtedly does.

*"Dorothy Arzner" by Marge Loch-Wouters

One of the few American women directors of the Hollywood studio era, Arzner wrote screenplays, edited, and directed films from the 1920's to the 1940's. She was the first woman member of the Director's Guild of America. This square, pieced by Jean Sandvidge Wouters, represents her 1940 film Dance Girl Dance. In this film a ballet dancer, played by Maureen O'Hara, confronts her male audience to tell them that she is not merely the object of their gaze.

*"Jodie Foster" by Sue Searing

After appearing in several TV series while still a girl, Jodie Foster came to the movie-going public's attention with her portrayal of a teenage prostitute in Taxi Driver (1976). She has won two Academy Awards for Best Actress: for her gripping portrayal of a gang-rape victim in The Accused (1988) and for her role as an FBI agent in Silence of the Lambs (1991). Most recently, she played a strong-willed scientist in Contact (1997). In addition, Foster has credits as the director of Little Man Tate (1991) and producer of Nell (1994), in both of which she starred. She heads her own company, Egg Pictures. Despite her life-long career in the Hollywood spotlight, Foster maintains an enviable privacy and reserve. Thus I chose the traditional Lone Star pattern to symbolize her life and work and to celebrate the marginalized but determined women she has brought to life on film.

*"Edith Head" by Nancy McClements

Edith Head (1897-1981) began her career as a teacher of French and art. To supplement her income, she was hired at Paramount as a sketch artist. She later became their head of design, and moved to Universal in 1967. She was nominated for 34 Academy Awards and won for eight, including The Heiress, All About Eve, Roman Holiday, Sabrina, and The Sting. I wanted to contribute a non-actress square--someone who was behind the scenes. However, Head was hardly an unknown. Her many television appearances and fashion columns made her well-known to the public. She worked with the major directors and actors of the time, and was known for her keen understanding of the technical issues that put limits on costume design. My square depicts an enticing Head outfit from one of my favorite movies, Notorious. Ingrid Bergman bares her midriff to Cary Grant in this slinky blouse/skirt ensemble. Worried that she'll be cold when they take a drunken night drive, Grant comes up close behind her and ties his handkerchief around her middle. The blouse was done in applique, with trapunto used to fill out the bodice. I embroidered Head's striking signature to form the "head."

*"Katherine Hepburn" by Heidi Marleau

Born in 1907 in Hartford, Connecticut, actress Katharine Hepburn received four Oscars for best actress and was nominated for twelve Academy Awards. Hepburn made over 50 feature films, six of which are portrayed in the quilt square. After receiving her first Oscar for Morning Glory (1933), she was branded box office poison. During this period she made the comedy, Bringing Up Baby (1938), (see leopard skin baby buggy). It wasn't until 1940 when she made the film version of The Philadelphia Story (see Liberty Bell and champagne glass) that she shook this label and was welcomed back to Hollywood. 1951's The African Queen (see rose fabric in middle of square) paired her as Rosie with Humphrey Bogart as Charlie. Hepburn won her second Oscar for her portrayal of Eleanor of Aquitaine in (this quilter's personal favorite) A Lion in Winter (see lion on snowflake background). She starred with Spencer Tracy in his last film, Guess Who's Coming to Dinner (1967), (see black book with white writing) for which she received her third Oscar. The final Oscar was given for her role in On Golden Pond (1981), (see loon on gold fabric). Her 1991 autobiography, Me, (see red outlined white book) detailed her life including her long affair with Spencer Tracy.

*"Dorothy Dandridge" by Christine Jenkins

Dorothy Dandridge (actor, singer, dancer, 1923-1965) was one of the first African Americans to star in dramatic roles in mainstream Hollywood films. Her film career began at age 13 with a bit part in the Marx Brothers' A Day at the Races (1937). She went on to become the first African American to receive an Oscar nomination for Best Actress for her sensational performance in the title role in Carmen Jones (1954). She also starred (with Harry Belafonte, Diahann Carroll, and Pearl Bailey) in Porgy and Bess (1959), but her career was limited and eventually destroyed by the institutional racism of the American film industry. Although Dandridge also had a successful career as a nightclub singer, in 1963 she was forced to declare bankruptcy and finally took her own life at age 41.

*"Julie Dash" by Julie Anne Chase

Director-writer Julie Dash became the first African American woman filmmaker with a feature film in theatrical release when Daughters of the Dust opened January 15, 1992 at the Film Forum in New York. It sold out every showing and has gone on to become something of a cult film. The bottle tree represented in this square appeared next to the Peazant's shanty throughout the film. Bottle trees were for protection from male violent or evil spirits. Dash explained in an interview with Bell Hooks that she understood that each bottle represented a deceased family member or ancestor. These spirits radiate good will, protection, and luck upon the family's house.

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Last update: November 10, 1999
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