Cycling in France
From: bstrat@objy.com (Bill Stratford)
Subject: Cycling in France (long-summary)
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 95 21:58:14 GMT
Thanks everyone for your suggestions on bicycling in France!
I'm posting the email responses that I received. I've edited
them very slightly, mostly stripping out multiple copies of the
original posting.
Also, I can point people to three books:
"Cycling France" by Simpson (~300pp,~US$12)
- summary of 20 routes of varying difficulty
"Bicycle Touring in France" by Hendricks (~150pp,~$10)
- summary of their top 4 routes through France: Loire,
Alsace/Burgundy, Provence, Dordogne
"France by Bike", author unknown, publisher The Mountaineers
- part of a large series of "X by Bike"... I didn't like it
in the store so I've forgotten the details.
Thanks everyone for your help!
My trip depends on me getting the time away to do it. Wish me luck!
Original posting:
> I am interested in taking a bicycle trip in France. Does
> anyone have particular areas or routes that you would recommend?
> Any areas or routes that you would NOT recommend?
>
> I plan on
> - riding in August (I know this is bad, but unavoidable)
> - riding about 50 mi day
> - camping when possible
> - staying in no-star hotels when not camping
>
> I'm interested in
> - avoiding areas subject to France/August-Everyone-On-Vacation-Crush
> - beautiful scenery
> - meeting friendly people
> - small towns rather than large cities
> - historical sites (esp. pre-Renaissance)
>
> Please send me email and I will summarize responses.
> Thanks!
>
> Bill Stratford
> bstrat@objy.com
>
The Dordogne is marvelous - start from Brive-la-Gaillard, which can be
reached by train from Paris with bike.
Gad Nathan
Department of Statistics Tel: +972-2-883-304/047
Hebrew University Fax: +972-2-322-545
91905 Jerusalem, ISRAEL E-mail: gad@olive.mscc.huji.ac.il
Dear Bill,
First, I would like to congratulate you on choosing France to make
a bicycle trip. As far as my experience goes (Netherlands, Belgium,
Luxemburg, Germany, France, Italy), France is the closest place to
bicycle heaven!
ABOUT ME:
I rode my bicycle in France about eight times for periods ranging from
eight days to a month. On three of such occassions, I rode from the
Netherlands to the French Alps and back again, accompanied by three
to six other cyclists. Thus, I have covered the eastern part of France.
ABOUT YOUR PLANS:
IMHO, riding in August is not so bad. The weather is excellent: August
is dry and hot (up to 37C/100F).
France has a high density of camp sites; your 50 miles/day should be
more than enough to bring you from one camp site to another. You'll
probably even have to ignore the first *ten* camp sites you see
just to make your 50 miles/day! In France, you're allowed to camp
`along the road' as long as the owner of the piece of land you're
using as a camp site has given you permission. Generally, just ask
the nearest farmer or mayor (`Monsieur le Maire' in French -- officially
you will find him at the City Hall (`Mairie'), but in most small
villages he will probably be drinking wine at the nearest cafe; he
might even ask you to join him!)
I have _no_ experience with camping at a farm, but as I've heard
it must be GREAT: it's *the* way to meet French people.
The quality of camp sites varies considerably, though. If you prefer
clean toilets over a luxurious swimming pool, the `camping municipal'
is generally a good bet (these are owned by the local village council).
Camp sites may be crowded in August (because the French themselves
are on holiday), but the manager ('patron') usually will find a spot
for your bike and small tent.
IMHO, the camping possibilities are very good and you won't have
to look for a hotel.
ABOUT YOUR INTERESTS:
As I said, August is the holiday month for the French. That shouldn't
be a problem though: the great tourist invasion has already passed
by then, so you won't get the idea that France is ruled by Germans,
Belgians and those f#&king noisy Dutch ;). Occasionally, you might
run into a few Brits -- usually sun-burned :)
However, the historical (let's say Roman) sites you want to visit
are located in the popular tourist area: the Provence (SE corner
of France, between the Mediterranean and the Alps). Don't let this
discourage you: the Provence is an *excellent* area for bicycle
rides. You will find hills to about 800 meters high, but they
are not too steep. Some famous historical towns are: Aix-en-Provence,
Nimes (Roman amphitheatre), Arles (Roman), Orange (Roman amphitheatre and
Arc de Triomphe) and Avignon (City Wall, the famous bridge, the
Palais des Papes --- Popes' Palace (13th/14th century)). Furthermore,
you should visit the Pont du Gare (Roman aquaduct) and the Grand
Canyon du .... (sorry, there should be a river's name on the dots,
but I cannot remember which one).
If you still think the Provence is to crowded, try the `departement'
(kind of province) Drome, located just north of the Provence on the
east bank of the river Rhone. Once you're in that area, cross the
river Rhone to the west bank (to the famous Ardeche departement)
and note the difference in landscape (but not in beauty!).
Here you will find numerous caves and other
miracles of Nature: go see the Pont d'Arc (a natural bridge).
Hills tend to become mountains in this area (up to 1000 meters).
Other interesting area's:
- the Cevennen, a mountainous area ( < 1200 meters) which is kind
of desolate. It is located just north of the Mediterranean, west
of the Provence, and south of the Ardeche. It can easily be combined
with a visit to Nimes, Arles, Orange and Avignon.
- the Dordogne (an area named after the river crossing it) which
borders the Cevennes/Massif Central in the east and the Atlantic
Ocean/the city of Bordeaux in the west. Hills rise up to 600 meters;
some historic sites can be found, as well as caves.
Ready for a *great* challenge? Try to climb the Mont Ventoux (1912m).
This (in)famous mountain is located NE of Avignon and is nick-named
`le Geant du Provence' -- you simply cannot miss it when you're in
the area. _Real_ cyclists start at the village of Bedoin (east of
the town of Carpentras, which is northeast of Avignon) for their
21 km of blood sweat and tears, covering approx. 1700m of elevation.
This road was taken by poor Tommy Simpson in the Tour de France of
1967, leading him to his death just a few kilometers from the summit.
(A memorial plaque can be found 1 km from the summit). The last 6 km
from Chalet Reynard to the summit almost makes you believe that you're
cycling on the *moon*. Your reward at the summit: a _literally_
breath-taking view (beware of the strong winds!)
HOW TO MEET FRENCH PEOPLE:
French people are generally friendly, especially in small towns and
villages in non-tourist areas. You just have to say three words
in French and they will start talking to you like they'll never stop.
Younger people are more and more learning to speak English -- but
English with a French accent is sometimes hard to understand.
Generally, the French like bicyclists, especially foreign bicyclists.
Although the French roads are sometimes flooded with bicycles,
foreign cyclists are considered a rarity. The phrase `Tour de France'
may start an interesting conversation.
Remember, however, that the French are proud of their country and
their language (the whole world says `computer' to a computer; the
French say `ordinateur').
PRACTICAL TIPS:
-Roads: Stay as much on the `route departementale' (departemental or
provincial roads) as you can. These are indicated by yellow
signs as D... (with a number on the dots). The `Routes
Nationales' (National Roads -- indicated N... or RN...) are
to be avoided.
French car drivers usually give room to cyclists; not only
because they like you, but also because in case of an accident,
the car driver is considered guilty unless proven innocent!
(BTW: this kind of legislation also exists in Belgium and
Holland -- isn't it great?)
-Maps: This is an easy one: buy yellow Michelin maps (available
everywhere in France). Scale: 1cm=2km. The aforementioned
roads are indicated on these maps. They show great detail
and are excellent. If you ever get lost when using a
Michelin map, seriously consider going to an optometrist
or a shrink ;)
Along with the maps you can also buy Michelin Guide books
(`Guide Michelin') containing practical (general) tourist
information. Most of these guides are also available
in English.
-Food: First rule in French food: ENJOY YOUR MEAL. Do not hurry.
(This is the general French attitude towards life).
Restaurants are generally cheap, but quality may vary.
Large Amercan-style supermarkets can be found just outside
villages and towns. Small villages have (small) grocery
shops (Casino is well-known). Shops are closed between
12:00 and 15:00h. In the Provence area, farmers are often
selling their products (apples, oranges, peaches etc.)
along the roadside.
-Drinks: Do NOT drink from public fountains. Buy plain water at the
supermarket (Evian, Volvic, Contrex). As a cyclist, you
might want to fight your thirst with Perrier-style mineral
water like Perrier (sic!), Badoit, St. Yorre. My favorite
drink: Orangina (kind of orange lemonade).
French coffee is *very* strong! I like it, but Americans
and Brits might consider it a poisoning attempt. To avoid
this, ask for a `cafe au lait' (coffee with -- lots of --
milk).
I once tried to race my bike uphill on *wine*. Don't try
to be as stupid as I was :(
-Bike shops: are not always easy to find. Due to French pride,
they may only carry French brands (e.g. Sachs-Huret).
Shimano and Campagnolo parts are expensive! Unfortunately,
I have heard of numerous cases where foreign cyclists were
ripped off. Be careful ... and friendly! Do not show that
you are in a hurry. And remember: also bike shops are
closed between 12:00 and 15:00h
-Address for information:
Federation Francaise de Cyclotourisme (FFCT)
8 Rue Jean-Marie Jego
F-75013 Paris, FRANCE
Have fun on your trip. I might be in France late August myself, so:
who knows we might run into each other?
I have *lots* of more information and stories about cycling in France.
Please feel free to contact me!
Gerard Haagh gerard@wfw.wtb.tue.nl
Eindhoven University of Technology
Eindhoven, the Netherlands
--------------------------------------------------------------------
"Mijn bewustzijn vernauwt zich "My consciousness narrows itself to
tot het achterwiel voor me" the rear wheel in front of me"
Tim Krabbe' - De renner Tim Krabbe' - The cyclist
I'm French (from Southern-France), so excuse me for my bad English. I
have already ride in the Alps, in the Pyrennees, in the Ceentre of
France (Massif Central) and in Britain.
> I plan on
> - riding in August (I know this is bad, but unavoidable)
> - riding about 50 mi day
> - camping when possible
There's no problem camping in France
> - staying in no-star hotels when not camping
>
> I'm interested in
> - avoiding areas subject to
France/August-Everyone-On-Vacation-Crush
All The coasts are full of people espcially the mediterrannean one.
the Cote d'Azur (From Nice to Toulon) is very horrible because of the
people and a lot of houses. But 50 km inside, it's very beautiful,
very mountainy, and hot.
> - beautiful scenery
For beautiful scenery, you can go in the Mountain (I know, it's hard
with a bike...). I love very much the Massif Central. There 's no big
towns, only small villages. There's beautiful scenery with volcano or
canon ( it's not the big canon but ..)
> - meeting friendly people
I don't think that people are more friendly in some place more than
others. In France people say that they are more friendly in the north
than in the south. You will meet friendly people if there's not many
tourists.
> - small towns rather than large cities
I don't know what is large city for you. There's only four town in
France with more than one million of inhabitants (Paris, Lyon,
Marseille and Lille) the other large towns are Bordeaux and Nice. If
you want very small town go in the Massif Central: the largest town
have 200.000 and all the others are less than 100.000 .
> - historical sites (esp. pre-Renaissance)
France is full of historical sites. What do you mean by
Pre-Renaissance? Moyen-Age (Middle-Age?). In northern-France a lot of
town have suffer from the two World-War. A lot of old castle (X-XIV),
in Provence (southern France), particullarly in Avignon. A lot of old
Church in Burgundy (near Autun) (Vezelay, Paray-le-Monial).
Some very beautiful village and historical site in the Massif Central
(departement of Correze and Dordogne: Sarlat, Carrouge,
Rocamadour...) I think this part of France is one of the most
Beautiful. It's a vaste area with few people and few tourist and with
many many little village built in very strange place. If you don't
want to go where every body goes, go there!!
>
>
Yvain Dubois dubois@gene.univ-montp2.fr
Institut des Sciences de L'Evolution MONTPELLIER
> I am interested in taking a bicycle trip in France. Does
> anyone have particular areas or routes that you would recommend?
> Any areas or routes that you would NOT recommend?
I did France a few years ago during Sept and Oct. Since there are loads of
youth hostles and I was alone, I decided to forget the camping gear.
You'll meet loads of people, and besides, Europeans don't seem to camp as
much as N. Americans.
I particularly liked Normandy and Britany (north west corner). I found the
people incredibly warm and hospitable (unlike in Paris or south of France).
Being Canadian, probably had something to do with it while I was in
Normandy. Roads were wonderful, since they don't have terribly cold
winters, and you can always get between towns on small country roads.
Knowing some french in rual France would be an asset. If you don't know
any, try not to "force" your English on them. They are a proud people and
unfortunately too many loud-mouth Americans have given them a bad
impression of the U.S. The English arn't tops on their list either.
You'll love the food, pasteries, and wine. Architecture is beautiful!
Good luck.
--Phil
We cycled in France last Aug. We road from the Bordeau area up to the
Channel. We did about 100km/day on very small roads. Just buy Michelin
maps of the area, we went through about 6 of them on our trip north. I
would not bother to camp. We found clean but rather old hotels for about
$25 for two of us/night. Sometimes we spent more sometimes less. The
only night we had any trouble finding a room was Aug. 15th which turns
out to be a French holiday. I have also cycled in other parts of
France. The Jura is also nice. I believe the trick is to find a smaller
airport to fly into, ie not Paris. Use Geneva or Bordeau for example.
Last summer we arived in Bordeau, dumped our cardboard bike boxes at the
airport and road out. I wouldn't have tried this from Paris. We
actually made our way to England by sea and air and flow home from there
but that is another story. Enjoy France. Almost any rural part will do.
The people were very friendly. An added advantage is that we did over
1000 km and saw not one broken bottle on the road!! No flats.
John
